There has been some talk about solid shampoo bars having high PH which is not particularly good for hair. A nice, PH balanced shampoo will keep your hair and scalp in good condition. It is all about the chosen surfactants.
We will keep updating and adding great information for changing up the formula for an enhanced finished product.
Benefits of our Solid Shampoo (Syndet)
- Ease of travel
- Gentle and silky
- Easy to make
- Low PH
The word “syndet” is derived from “synthetic” combined with “detergent”. Technically it refers to the binding that occurs between different detergents, also called surfactants. These detergents, which have an affinity for oils and repel water, surround dirt with small structures that are then removed by water.
Gentle Solid Shampoo Bar Recipe Yield approx 300 grams
1st Heated phase
1 3/4 tsp 3.4% BTMS 25 Conditioning emulsifier
1 tsp 1.9% Cetyl Alcohol emollient, emulsifier. Can be substituted with Brassica Alcohol for a palm free ingredient
3/4 tsp 1.5% protein of choice (Hydrolyzed Silk or Baobab Protein) improves elasticity, resiliency, and restore the moisture balance for smoother and softer hair.
1/2 tsp 1.14% Panthenol powder Humectant that helps give body & shine and detangling properties to hair. It can cause curly hair to frizz, however. If you omit this, add this % to the SCI or SLSA (add to 1 heated phase. Be careful to not let it burn)
1/2 tsp .57% scent (more can be added depending on your choice of scent)
Optional: Water-soluble dye or micas for colour. Manganese Violet is known to brighten grey hair and reduce the brassiness in blonde.
If you want to hold off on formulating the final bars, mix up the shampoo powder without heating it up. When you need shampoo bars, scoop out the powder, warm it up, colour it and fragrance/essential oil, and mold it. You can keep the mixture in a 20 litre airtight pail.
Melt your 1st heated phase over the stove in a double boiler at medium high heat. Make sure the water bath is large enough to accomodate the inserted vessel. Do not allow the water to spit into the inserted vessel. At the same time in a separate vessel heat, your 2nd heated phase by totally melting the kokum butter then add the remainder of the 2nd heated phase and continue to heat until melted.
We recommend melting the entire formula to achieve nice hard bars that do not fall apart halfway during use. Combine both heated phases mix well and remove from the heat. If you find the 1st heated phase needs more moisture, multiply the Cocamidopropyl betaine by up to 3 times. It may take your final bar longer to harden.
Mix in your cool down phase. If adding colour, this is the time.
Allow to cool to 80 Degrees Celsius or less and mix in the Optiphen Plus, and scent, colour (judge this and use sparingly) if using and combine.
Press tightly into your mold and allow to firm up. Tap the mould on the counter to remove any air bubbles and level the back (Not a smooth batter so beware)
Place in the freezer for a couple of hours. This makes a more solid, pliable bars. Pop them out of the mold and let them sit for 24 to 48 hours to dry out further. No need to cure or cover. Can be used after 48 hours. Lather the bar in your hands at first, add to your wet hair and then use the bar directly on your hair for more lather.
Water friendly ingredients such as clays, plant extracts and starches can make the bars too crumbly, keep their usage low.