We are pleased to add another palm & peg free ingredient to our inventory. We also carry a plant-based liquid solubilizer-emulsifier for room/pillow sprays.
Consider the use of a palm free co-emulsifier such as Brassica alcohol at 1 - 2% to further improve stability. Xanthan Gum or Konjac Gum used at about 0.2% to improve the stability. When melting with emulsifiers with higher melting points, more heat or longer melting times are required.
Consider the use of a non palm
INCI Name: Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate
Tradenames: Plantasens® Natural Emulsifier HE20, Olivem 1000
Olivem® 1000 is a PEG-free Ecocert non-ionic self-emulsifying multifunctional ingredient (white to ivory waxy flakes at 20°C, melting point ~ 70°C). It is a complex combination of fatty acids, chemically similar to the lipidic composition of the skin surface. Olivem® 1000 has the ability to generate liquid crystal structures that mimic the stratum corneum organization. As the sole emulsifier, Olivem® 1000 provides a deep moisturizing effect with excellent spreadability and no soapy effect. It has good compatibility with Dihydroxyacetone and with alpha-hydroxy acids and is useful in formulations with pH 3 – 12. Further, it is COSMOS-validated which means:
Consider the use of a co-emulsifier such as cetyl alcohol at 1 - 2% to further improve stability. Xanthan Gum used at about 0.2% will also improve stability. May require a PH adjustment depending on the preservative used.
Recommended use level: 3 – 4% in o/w emulsions like serums as the sole emulsifier (5 – 10% for higher viscosity systems) such as lotions and creams
Shelf life: 60 months.
Features & Benefits:
Solubility: Oil Soluble – Add to your oil phase
SAP Value – 90-120
It has good compatibility with Dihydroxyacetone and with alpha-hydroxy acids and is useful in formulations with pH 3 – 12.
White to Ivory waxy flakes at 20°C, melting point ~ 70°C
Tricks and tips on working with Olivem1000
Use an oil phase concentration between 7-25%.
Set the emulsifier to oil ratio between 1:4 to 1:5 (emulsifier:Oil).
Olivem 1000 is added to the oil phase. The oil and water phases are heated separately, where the water bath temperature is 5-10 degrees Celsius higher than the melting point of your ingredient with the highest melting point – you should never heat and hold your ingredients. Please ignore any advice given to you by DIY blogs or DIY courses online where this is encouraged. It will only lead to you degrading your ingredients, promoting oxidation and evaporating your water phase.
After adding the oil phase to the water phase, add your viscosity modifier (such as a natural gum) which you’ve pre-blended in glycerine for a better dispersion throughout the organic oil-in-water emulsion.
Now you can start cooling down the emulsion and continue stirring during the cool down phase.
At temperatures lower than 40 degrees Celsius, you can start adding your sensitive ingredients and continue stirring while the emulsion cools down.
As the emulsion reaches the room temperature, it’s time to measure the pH. The pH of skincare products for everyday use should be between 4.5-5.5. The optimum pH of your products is also determined by the preservative system you are using.
Prepare a 10% dilution of the emulsion in distilled water. Measure the pH either with a pH indicator strip or with a glass electrode attached to a pH-meter. Adjust the pH as it is recommended by your preservative supplier. In order to reduce the PH you need to add an acid (such as citric acid or lactic acid). If you want to increase the pH, you need to use a base such as sodium hydroxide, sodium bicarbonate or arginine. Please note that you should never use a powder to adjust the pH when you’re working at laboratory scale. You will need to make dilutions of the acid or base in distilled water and then add the solution to the emulsion.
After adjusting the pH, add the preservative and blend for a few minutes. Most preservatives either increase or decrease the pH and you need to re-measure and probably readjust the pH to its optimum level once again.
Continue stirring the organic emulsion for a while and then divide the sample for your stability and microbial tests. Fill the rest in a suitable container. You have now created a simple oil-in-water emulsion!
Courtesy of Formula Botanica
While an HLB value has been provided to us by the manufacturer, however the chemistry does not really work based on the HLB system. Its emulsification mechanism is based on liquid crystal formation and therefore the HLB value is not so critical for this emulsifier.
The stability of Olivem 1000 is improved with the addition of a water-phase thickener like our Xanthan Gum (Soft or Clear), used at about 0.2%.
Fatty alcohols such as Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol or Cetearyl Alcohol can be added to the oil phase for thickening if needed.
I'm strictly palm oil free. This was the only company I could find to ship to NY. It was super fast and the product is great.
Really appreciate your products. Olivem 1000 works well in our sugar buff application! Great pricing and appreciate the great customer service. Thank you
Love this emulsifier! As a long-term user of BTMS-50 and Polawax, I was unsure about this emulsifier, as I'd read that it can be finicky. I went to the manufacturer's website, and followed the directions. Added the oil phase to the water phase after heating separately in the microwave, stick blended for a few minutes....and watched it separate into oil and water layers :(
Have no fear if this happens to you! Just keep blasting it periodically as it cools, and it comes together beautifully. I threw everything at the batch, since I thought it might fail anyway. My lotion had aloe vera (15%), alpha hydroxy acids, allantoin, panthenol, grapefruit and olive leaf extracts, both LuxGlides, essential oil and preservative. No issues at all.
I do NOT use it in my oil and butter heavy peppermint foot cream, as Polawax is the only emulsifier I've found that can handle my ingredients, plus menthol crystals and peppermint EO. It might work, but I've had too many fails with other products to risk trying it.
I used a handmixer after stick blending as the first batch cooled, but the second time, I just stirred with a spatula (and blended each ingredient with the stick blender). The lotions are white, have a lovely gloss, and leave a soft, smooth, nongreasy feel (I do use cetyl esters and cetyl alcohol, at 2% each, too). I like that the emulsifier has no scent; BTMS-50 is a bit fishy in comparison. Enjoy!